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Coming back from Ubud just to eat some roasted pork on rice over there, I must say, Anthony Bourdain, the famous author, culinary in-your-face adventurer and self-proclaimed hedonist is right. You really have the best Babi Guling (which is ‘Spanferkel’ or Roasted Suckling Baby Pig) in Ubud/Bali!
Just ask anyone in Ubud for Warung Ibu Oka’s (Auntie Oka’s Stall), which was featured in his show ‘No reservations’ (running on cable on the Travel & Living Channel or Discovery Channel). Actually that’s not right, you have to ask for her house – because Ibu Oka had to move her stall recently after Anthony Bourdain visited her Warung.
Why?
Ever since then the crowds of curious travelers kept flocking there, cueing up and occupying that small stall big time. So she finally moved the stall a few roads back into her house and garden, which is a beautiful and tranquil green place, with plenty of plants growing and birds chirping.
Hordes of foreigners and locals alike do the pilgrimage every day to check out what’s the fuss about – and you won’t be disappointed! It’s now more like a Mekka for pork lovers. (Hah – what a paradox! 
The procedure goes like this: come in, find some free spot, sit down and wait a few minutes, while ordering some drinks. Beer Bintang, Es Jeruk (Orange Drink), Es Tea (Local Ice Tea) or the international soft drinks.
There is only one choice of food on the menu, ehhh sorry, there isn’t even a menu – just one choice of food. But it’s well worth it!
Ibu Oka tries hard to offer you a reproducible culinary experience: all portions look almost equal, with white rice, white pork meat covered with her favorite Balinese Sauce, a piece of blood sausage, 2 piece of fried pork skin, pork liver and some other (probably other dried pig organs) per set.
I admit it doesn’t look that delicious at all but the taste makes more than up for it. You’ve just got to try it!
There are even some people who just fly to Bali to eat pork at Warung Ibu Oka’s! How is that?
So what’s the fare after you’ve finished?
We paid Rp 85.000 (around 7 Euro, 10 USD, or SGD 14) for 1 big beer, 1 Es Jeruk and 3 portions Babi Guling. Ahemmm, yes I had to order another one portion, as it was soooooo delicious and I couldn’t get enough of it.
After that we could almost roll downhill back the 90 minute drive from Ubud to Seminyak; as my belly surely measured more the size of a pig’s than thus of a skinny budget traveler.
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Related: Here is an interesting interview with Anthony Bourdain which covers most countries of Asia and interesting insights into pig slaughter and other foreign activities to a Westerner.
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I loved Bourdain’s first book, Kitchen Confidential, and his TV show. Good to hear your first-person account of this experience.
Such a shame I didn’t get a chance to try babi guling while I was there a few weeks ago! We didn’t have time to try/do/see everythin we wanted whcih just gives me reason to plan a trip back. I was naive to assume it was just like our local version of lechon and only later did I find out it’s stuffed with all sorts of delicious local spices that makes it unique. It was great reading about your experience, will definitely head Ibu Oka’s warung when I go back. Thanks!
I want have a husband like him
Can eat everything, maybe cook as well and drink arak atack with me
My Sanurian can’t cook.
Watched that episode and my husband swore that I had a virtual pork-gasm. LOL. It. Looked. So. Frelling. Good!!!!!!
A pork pilgrimage? When I win the lottery, that’s the first on my list.
Hi Nomad,
Thanks for linking to my post AND for letting me know the important information about change of location! I’ve got 3 months until I fly out there and indulge. Your post and pictures make me want to leave today!
That’s interesting. Haven’t heard like that yet in other places. That’s probably one of its kind in the world…
Update from last weekend regarding Ibu Oka – they moved the Warung back from her house to the usual place close to the Banjar Building in Ubud. It seems it was only expansion/construction, not for good. There is still construction ongoing, but you can order and eat as usual. Taste is great! Babi Guling Spesial, 1 portion Rp. 20.000, bigger portion with separate rice for Rp 30.000.
I was one of those people who flew to Bali just for Ibu Oka’s magnificent creation.
Ok, I was in other parts of Indonesia for other matters, but I went to Ubud especially for the roast pork. I’ve made a point for several years, of chowing on her pork every time I’m in the country. That Ubud is renowned for other things such as paintings, cultural performances and other artisty things, were an incidental bonus.
Personally, I’m a fan of kampong chicken… so lean and tasty.
But the pork is a suitable second!
Thank you so much for this info. Gotta love the Internet and Google. “Anthony Bourdain” and “Bali” popped this site up as the first hit. I saw his Bali show and was wanting to know where the fabulous pork was located. Ubud is one of my favorite places in the entire world and to so easily find the pork god palace that Anthony Bourdain showed, but did not specify, is a special treat. I will make a special pilgrimage there next time I am in Indonesia (two times a year minimum).
Hello, This is a pretty cool blog on ! Thanks a lot and have fun!
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Ibu Oka’s pork is one of the best, but Indonesia has another secret treasure for pork lovers. Bangka Island has one of the best sucking pig roasted with herbs and peanut, the chili sauce is also a superlative. I even had dreams about it :-)
I’m going to Bali in 2 weeks, I’d love to know where that Anthony Bourdain waterfall is.
Also, aside from Ibu Oka and dirty duck, anything else you can recommend for me to eat or see or do? Thanks.
Albert – an Anthony Bourdain Waterfall? I didn’t know they have one in Bali. Was it on one of his shows? Most waterfalls in Bali are in the North, the most famous one is Git-Git, a cascading waterfall with several trekking paths and view points. For other waterfalls, just rent a car, drive along the Northern Coast and look out for the signs “Air Terju”, which means Waterfall in Bahasa Indonesia. Another smaller one is off Bedugul, read more about it here.
I was googling Anthony Bourdain & found ur blog accidentally, love it. I’m also a big fan of Mr. Bourdain & pork. I had been to Ibu Oka also, she indeed has the best suckling pig in Bali, the 2nd best is Babi Guling Chandra in Denpasar.
There are lots of pork menu in every island of Indonesia, u should try the Manadonese pork satay & other pork dishes there, usually spicy. Manado is the capital city of North Sulawesi, but u can find these dishes in most of Manadonese restaurants in Jakarta.
Btw, i don’t like Bobby Chinn. How come he had a nerve to spit out a durian in his show & give negative reviews when he came to Jakarta…shame on u Bobby. I guess he has a lot to learn from the great Mr. Bourdain :-)